Torre Egger - Face Leste
The Torre Egger is part of a formation of pinnacles, standing between Cerro Torre, the highest elevation and Cerro Stanhardt. Egger stands by the giant mushroom of ice at the summit. There have been many attempts to scale it in entatanto were several dropouts due to inclement weather, constant exposure to debris like rocks and ice that come off the slopes. There are five routes, all difficult progression.
The face of Torre Egger East has its first recorded ascent on 22 February 1976, where the climbers Americans John Bragg and Jay Wilson Jim Donini, through the Southeast Ridge, has four routes: the Italian in 1980 (De Donà and Giongo), Psycho Vertical (Jeglic, Karo and Knez, 1986), Titanic 87 (Giarolli and Orlandi, 1987) and Badlands (Anker, Gerberding and Smith, 1994).
In 2002 Tim O'Neill and Nathan Martin, experienced and daring climbers Americans won a variant on the east face of Torre Egger. This new variant has ten strings, starts for the Italian Way - East Face, according to Via Titanic 87 for eight new pitches, by which they reached the summit. In total there are 32 pitches with difficulties 6b + 05.11 A2 WI 6, 950m (the acronym WI is the graduation for climbing on ice melting), being completed in two and a half days and in alpine style, the second the same way in the Tower Egger, after Dona and Giongo. The climb had to be aborted several times due to bad weather, a very particular characteristic of Patagonia.
The granite colossus always raised the imagination of its viewers, the first attempt to climb the Torre Egger however, happened only in January 1974 by a group of the British Leo Dickinson, Eric Jones, Martin Boysen, Paul Tut Braitwaite, Keith Lewis Mick Coffey and American Dan Reid and Rick Sylvester. A possible way was the right side of the face east, dangerous and exposed to falling blocks, so that meters 300 meters below the neck between the Torres Herron and Egger, Paul Braithwaite was hit fracturing an arm and consequently the team abandoned the attempt.
In 1975 two groups tried to climb the Torre Egger, one American and one New Zealander. In view of the South American expedition progressions performed with Jay Wilson, Jhon Bragg and Jim Donini. In New Zealand, seeking the good progress of the British in 74, decided to follow suit, however inevitable in the fall of 60 meters Phillip Herron, 19 years in a crack put an end the expedition. His person is honored with the naming of the tower attached to Torre Egger.
The December 18, 1975 were admitted to the Los Glaciares National Park, the transport work was soon started enjoying days of meager stable weather to the valley of the Tower, where he is currently the Camp Agostini. With an established base camp in the forest, they continued to the Torre Glacier and carried food and equipment for a snow cave at the foot of Torre Egger, leaving you with enough food for three months.
The abrupt change of climate is a determinant for the success of any expedition in all over the world, which was to be a regular occurrence, the persistence of bad weather forced them to return to base camp after two weeks returned to the site where his supplies, under ten feet of snow, which took over two days of excavation.
The extrategia was to climb the 700 meters from the Maestri-Egger route to the Col of Conquest, and from there up the remaining 400 meters of the south face of Torre Egger, becoming the first to cover a part of Maestri-Egger route.
In the months of December and January took advantage of the short intervals of good weather to fix 180 meters of ropes in 1,200 meters of route 23 and January 24 were in the field of snow triangle, where yards before they found wooden wedges and clamps, and then after a fixed rope, and reach a plateau, coils of rope discolored by the sun and a backpack with wooden wedges, these were the only traces of Maestri and Egger in its path.
There are always variations in weather, after one week climbed 300 meters enjoying two days of good weather, entering the stretch of the route where the exposure to falling ice blocks becomes a constant and one of them would have wiped out the wall if Wilson had not hit the wall a few feet above, dissolving into a thousand pieces. They continued climbing diagonally up and right following the line Maestri-Egger and heading for the Col of Conquest, the deep cut between the Cerro Torre and Torre Egger. After two days of free climbing, mixed and artificial, they finally arrived in Colorado, passed a bad night, observing the signs of an approaching storm, swirling clouds and wind turbulence. They went down the fixed ropes and returned to base camp to recover and wait for a lull time ...
Two weeks later, on Feb. 16, returned to the mountain carrying an aluminum frame and nylon, weighing 15 pounds and called 'Whillans Box', specially designed to withstand the weather, a tent was designed by the English climber Don Whillans to withstand winds strong and first used during the first ascent of the central tower of the Torres del Paine. It was installed just below the cervix, where they spent the next six days.
The wall directly above the cervix was negative slope and covered with rotten ice. This route was impassable and the only option was to follow to the right, covering the distance of two strings, on a steep wall all covered with ice, to have access to the top. Donini gave us a big scare when he fell six meters fellow rock slippery but I managed to finish the ticket and an anchor. Bragg led the other and followed a cross section of eighteen meters of rock in the negative. Donini was time to head back, his description: "I went up to a point where I could no longer follow. Jay came to me and I tried to ... just a pendulum pendulum far enough to the right, managing to hold his hand in a crack, setting a pin and clips. "
With the leadership Donini, Bragg and Wilson anchored and waited patiently for him to spend three and half hours, beating the passage of eighteen meters. A tie played on a stone pedestal and placing a clip saved the day. Above the Col of Conquest, the technical requirements eased a little, but the hot weather made the road dangerous. Falling ice were constant everywhere, while the water fell in the cracks leaving the wet rock. The beginning of a storm brought hail and fog, but took them eager to continue fixing ropes on the difficult mixed terrain to reach the top 120 meters. On February 22 rose by thick ropes of snow and frozen. Followed thereafter by a virgin soil, stretches climbing vertical ice and rock climbing. Amid the storm, came untouched on the ridge, where they left a carabiner on the previous year had found near the body of Toni Egger and began to descend. Throughout his climb just used four staples. Donini: "We had some clips to us but really reluctant to use ...." The complete path is 1,100 meters, 400 meters of which were conquered by them, and its difficulty is 5.9, A4, WI 5.
1976 - American (East Face, East Ridge) (1,100, 5.9, A4, WI 5) Jay Wilson, Jhon Bragg and Jim Donini (USA), 22/fev/1976.
1980 - Time (East Face) (1,000 m, 6a, A2, 85 º / 90 º) Giongo Giuliano, Bruno De Dona and Mr. Nardini (Italy), 15/março/1980.
1986 - Psycho Vertical (Face South) (UIAA VII + A3 + ED 90) Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo, Knez Franc (Slovenia), 7/dez/1986.
1987 - Titanic (Pillar East) (UIAA VI + A2), Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi (Italy), 2 to 5/nov/1987.
1994 - Badlands (East Face) (1,000 m, VI 5.10 A3 YDS WI 4 +) Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding and Jay Smith (USA), 12/dez/1994.
2002 - O'Neill / Martin (East Face Variant) (950m, 6b + A2 WI 11.05 6) Tim O'Neill, Nathan Martin (USA), 22-24/jan/2002.
In 1959 Cesare Maestri, went to the Fitz Roy region to make another attempt on Cerro Torre. He states that after ten days of continuous storms, he and his companions Cesarino Fava (Italy) and Toni Egger (Autríaco), crossed the glacier and climbed 700 meters tower on the east face of Cerro Torre, until you reach a huge neck, which Colo termed the Conquest. Cesarino returned to camp and left Maestri and Egger to continue the next day up the steep northern edge.
What is known is that six days after he said he came down from her lap, Maestri Cesarino found alone and delirious, half-buried in the snow at the foot of the eastern face. Babbling, Maestri said a large avalanche that had swept from the face, killing Toni Egger, as they descended the mountain. Maestri said they were returning victorious, having been the first people to stand on the summit of Cerro Torre, something opposed by many climbers today.
In 1975, the British climber Mick Coffey, in an attempt to climb to Cerro Standhardt with American climber Jim Donini and British colleagues Ben Campbell-Kelly and Brian Wyville, they found the gruesome remains of Toni Egger off the glacier. The body had been traveling for more than 2 kilometers from the disappearance fifteen years earlier on the east face of Cerro Torre.www.pataclimb.com